What follows is a report on potentially the most notable political protest in Mongolia since 1990. The protest that happened in the beginning of 2006 only resulted in a broken door for the MAXH building. This one has been much more destructive.
My high-speed Internet is down, so I am posting the following over dial-up. No time for editing, so forgive poor prose.
MAXH (MPRP in English) took the election yesterday. See Asian Gypsy for more.
This morning, I asked my taxi driver about it and she said it was terrible. Roughly she said, "Benzin [gasoline], we can't control the price of that. But look at the price of flour and meat. That comes from Mongolia. We can't get meat from relatives in the countryside anymore, we have to buy it. MAXH is to blame. This won't change anything."
I was on my way to attend Telemedicine 2008, a symposium sponsored by UNFPA and Lux Development at the Ulaanbaatar Hotel that started at 930am. More on the symposium another day.
During the day I heard comments from a few Mongols that they weren't happy with the results. In an election where the Democratic Party was forecast to win, and claimed they would give everyone 1 million tugrugs (US$860) to every citizen, MAXH came out and said they would give 1.5 million (US$1290). They even went so far as to print checks that would be valid if MAXH took the election. The catch was that the only people that received the checks were those who registered with MAXH in the days before the election.
Starting around 2pm, during a presentation, we heard a crowd cheering outside. Immediately we knew it must be a protest in front of the MAXH headquarters, directly adjacent to the Ulaanbaatar Hotel. A few of us went to the 6th floor restaurant, where we watched as police in riot gear (helmets, batons, and shields) blocked a large crowd waving flags from the minority parties. Notably the Democratic Party flag was not present. They had marched here from 3 directions, Songino-Hairhan on the west of town, Bayanzurh on the east of town, and one other duureg, possibly Chingeltei in the north. There were broken bottles on the front steps of the MAXH building at that time. There were a few minor skirmishes between police and civilians, but mostly there were no notable confrontations. I'm not good with estimates of large crowds, but I am guessing 1000 odd people and 200 police. At that time the chants were ... "Time to break up the MPRP!" "In 1990 we achieved democracy, now it is time to reclaim it!" "People at home watching TV, come and join us!" We went downstairs to watch and after taking a few photos decided to head back in to the seminar.
Later, just past 615pm, we came back to see what was happening as the noise had noticeably escalated. The crowd had grown and had gained control of the front steps of the MAXH building (no police were on the steps), most of the front windows had been destroyed, and people were constantly hurling rocks and bottles at the building, breaking whatever was left. Aside from some street kids, the crowd was mostly, but not wholly, young men. Women and young children were still present. The 5 MAXH flags in front of the building had been replaced by flags from the minority parties, this time including the Democratic Party. In the next 1+ hour we watched as the crowd destroyed everything they possibly could. The steel fence in front of the building was ripped from the ground. One section of it was used as a battering ram for the front door. Lamp posts, air conditioners, windows on the side of the building, nothing was left intact. We watched as one fire was set to a room on the first floor. The police, who in my honest opinion were behaving in a restrained manner, used water canons, tear gas, and what was presumed to be rubber bullets - we could only hear the sounds of the gun shots echoing off buildings, but there was a man who had served in the Indian Navy nearby and confirmed that they could not be live rounds from the sound.
Around the time that I decided to leave along with a colleague from the Health Sciences University, the UNFPA representative walked by and said they weren't allowed to leave the building. I grabbed my colleague and we told the doorman we were headed north, and we walked out as quickly as we could. As we turned back we saw a big plume of smoke rising from the MAXH building. We walked together to the Chinese Embassy before parting ways. All along the way we saw groups of people walking in the other direction, some looking curious, others looking angry. Made it back home a little while ago. I will post videos and more photos when I can. It is now 845pm, still a bit of light out, and they are showing it live on TV. The crowd has not abated. A minivan is on fire.
Update - photos from today:
1) 330pm, still relative calm, view from 6th floor of Ulaanbaatar Hotel.
2) 331pm, many video cameras, digital cameras, camera phones used to capture today's events, view from 6th floor of Ulaanbaatar Hotel.
3) 351pm, view from ground level in front of MAXH building.
4) 354pm, view from ground level in front of MAXH building.
5) 702pm, protesters in control of the area in front of MAXH building, as seen from 6th floor of Ulaanbaatar Hotel.
Updates:
1125pm: See Mongolia - Election 2008 updates:Violence and Riots from Asian Gypsy, including links to international coverage. Top floor of MAXH building is reportedly on fire.
1205am: A front loader (Mongolian: екскаватор) which saw earlier use in the protest was just shown on television being driven onto the front steps of the MAXH building. Lighting is not good, but that's what it looked like. The protest has spread into Suhbaatar Square and they have attacked the Cultural Palace which is now fire. The rioters have set up barricades in the streets.
1215am: Special law in effect. Everyone needs to carry identification with them at all times or they are subject to arrest. Fire on the steps in front of the Chinggis statue in Suhbaatar. Ban on sale of alcohol.
105am: 10pm-8am curfew in effect for the next four days inside of Baga Toiruu. Eagle TV reports on their blog that they can no longer report on the riots based on an order from President Enkhbayar. Only State Television for next four days.
130am: MNB and Eagle TV each said they had reporters beaten and equipment damaged.
135am: Central Cultural Palace on fire. 90% sure on the following. Children's Library burned. Modern Art Gallery looted and on fire. Some sections possibly saved. Trying to prevent the fire from spreading to the theater.
245am: An unconfirmed report that the opera building was on fire. MNB stops news coverage at 242am.
3am: Reports on the state of emergency from AFP and BBC News. Been at least 30 minutes since we've heard any shots (police flare guns). Going to bed for a few hours now.
1040am: This morning's television coverage was of PM Bayar through the night. Meeting with the Chiefs of Police and Ontsgoi Baidliin Alba (government agency responsible for emergency situations). Touring damaged areas including the MAXH building and the Central Cultural Palace. Visiting the Trauma Hospital (Gemtel), shaking hands with doctors and injured rioters. Four deaths so far, one by shooting, one in a fire, and two in a beating. Outside, on the north edge of town anyway, people are going about their daily business. I've canceled my morning meetings at the Ministry of Health.
1155am: Armored cars and police vehicles have cordoned off some streets in central Ulaanbaatar.
1040am: This morning's television coverage was of PM Bayar through the night. Meeting with the Chiefs of Police and Ontsgoi Baidliin Alba (government agency responsible for emergency situations). Touring damaged areas including the MAXH building and the Central Cultural Palace. Visiting the Trauma Hospital (Gemtel), shaking hands with doctors and injured rioters. Four deaths so far, one by shooting, one in a fire, and two in a beating. Outside, on the north edge of town anyway, people are going about their daily business. I've canceled my morning meetings at the Ministry of Health.
1155am: Armored cars and police vehicles have cordoned off some streets in central Ulaanbaatar.
Almost goes without saying, but stay safe!
Posted by: k | 01 July 2008 at 07:40 AM
Echoing K's sentiments!! Yes, please!
Posted by: tater-tot | 01 July 2008 at 09:51 AM
Yo JP,
Just heard about the state of emergency from the BBC and came over here to the get the real scoop. Do stay out of harm's way!
Peace and love,
Yogadeemus
Posted by: yogingm | 01 July 2008 at 02:33 PM
Dude, just heard about the happenings in the capital. Hope things settle down. Be carefull!
Posted by: G Lo | 01 July 2008 at 04:04 PM
Stay safe friend. I will keep you in my prayers.
Posted by: Ryan Shelby | 01 July 2008 at 10:29 PM
Take muchos care amigo.
Posted by: Jono | 01 July 2008 at 10:30 PM
Thanks all for the messages. Things have calmed down quite a bit now. They are set to lift the state of emergency soon, so we will see what plays out afterwards.
Posted by: Jaspal | 04 July 2008 at 07:22 AM